Kebabs, Aromatic Biryani and So Much More: Indian City Gains Recognition on Unesco Creative Cities List.
Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.